Mount Bona
Wrangel - Saint Elias National Park Alaska
May 12 - 24, 2001

Our expedition notice and postcard:


Chitina Airstrip.  This is as far into
Wrangell-St. Elias National Park as we got by car. 
From here all travel was by air.

Loading the Cesna 185.  No seats, no beverage
service.  But the inflight movie was great.  We took 
this plane on our first leg travels into the National Park. 
It was a forty minute journey along a glacial river to
a remote luxury lodge (accessible only by plane) 
"Ultima Thule". 

Here is a view out the window of the plane 
as we followed braided river bed up into the park. 
Elevation around 3000 feet. 
I was in the copilot seat.

On some medieval maps the remote and inaccessible 
north was call "Ultima Thule".  This wilderness 
lodge, by the same name, is on an inholding within 
the National Park. Accessible by airplane, it is generally
a luxury type facility catering to only a few travellers at 
a time--  but they do also host climbers.  We flew in 
here before heading on to the mountain.  Bad weather 
higher  up kept us here two nights.  There are plenty 
worse  places to get stuck!  We played with fifty sled 
dogs, used the sauna, checked our gear and feasted.
We had to wait two nights at the lodge.  Dave Staeheli, 
our guide used some of this time to instruct us on the
finer points of Alaskan climbing.  He is a pretty 
accomplished guide, having been on Everest and 
working in the mountains of New Zealand.  What
impressed us particularly was his winter climb 
of Mount McKinley-- solo. 
Here Dave is explaining where to stick
a picket.  A picket is the big aluminum stake he is
holding-- it can be used as an anchor in deep snow. 
Where to stick it ison the side of your backpack, 
where you can get it, but it won't fall off. 
(What did you think I was going to say?)

While waiting at Ultima Thule, we practiced our skills. 
The biggest danger on Bona is falling in a crevasse. 
There  are many ways to get out of a crevasse
while hanging on a rope.
 One is a self rescue using sliding knots (prussiks). 
It is pretty strenious, with much of the
effort being getting the backpack off and assembling 
the system. Here we practice in a barn while hanging 
from a overhead beam.  See the ladder... well first you
climb the ladder, then Dave kicks
it out from under you...
The secret of Ultima Thule.  Fifty sled dogs,
five puppies, don't mind the noise,
go pet them-- no waiting.
We were two days at Ultima Thule waiting for the 
weather  to clear at higher elevations. 
Six AM day two there was a  banging on our 
bunkroom door--the pilot screaming,
"Weather is clearing, LETS GO!"   Fifteen minutes 
later we were lifting off the dirt runway, 
the Beaver rising rapidly.   The flight was one of the 
most spectacular parts of the trip...

Up past snow covered peaks with glaciers below.  At this 
pointwe were pretty worried about that cloud ceiling-- 
the pilot need to be able to see up to 11,000+ feet
in order to get us up onto the glacier on Mount Bona...

We break out of the clouds...  hey, what is that in front
of us? The Beaver rises in the cold clear air passing by the
14,000 foot high pyramid of University Peak
and on towards our  goal.
We begin to descend to an open glacier. 
Or rather, we flew level up the valley 
as the ice river rose towards our skids... 
In a minute or five we will be on the snow. 
Our plane touches down on the glacier as smoothly on
skis as the best airport landing.  Smoother in fact, 
because we are landing uphill and the plane comes to
a rapid stop.  As we halt the pilot turns a sharp 180,
so as to be facing downhill for takeoff.  Then comes
a mad scramble to unload.  I hand the pilot 
some postcards to take out and within a minute 
or two he roars off.  Leaving us standing alone, likely
the only people within fifty miles in any direction. 

Here we are then at 10,600 feet on a glacier, sun blazing at 8 am.  Dave says,  "best thing about flying in is that
you can tell that there are no crevasses where we land."  (Does he mean that we know there aren't because...
what? if there were, the plane would have fallen in?)  Dave marks a boundary with wands and instructs us that
for the duration of trip we are never to go beyond that boundary without roping up.
We almost start to feel the cold - zero or minus ten-  when we begin our first task,  building camp.
This will job will keep us warm for several hours to come...

WHAT HAPPEN NEXT?
Mount Bona Adventure Continued...

Expedition postcards were created for trip sponsors

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